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Margaret-Marie Gallagher

EDGE-ucation

The ‘Un’ in Fashion

Become fearless in your design approach. Create fashion that is unexpected, unpredictable, and uncompromised.

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Early Adopters: Ukraine’s BE SUSTAINABLE! Fashion Summit

Ukrainian Fashion Week has demonstrated leadership in showcasing fashion not tied to a season by responding to a circular fashion system.

“Oyma” by Polina Veller, designer | Ukrainian Fashion Week No Season 2021, photo: courtesy of Ukrainian Fashion Week

Aryanization and the Destruction of Berlin’s Fashion Industry

Source Pinterest, Gary Moon | Berlin 1928, at a polo tournament, scan from: Berlin die 20er Jahre, Christian Brandstätter Verlag
Today a memorial in Hausvogteiplatz, the center of Berlin’s fashion district, marks this history.

“Today, Berlin only teaches fashion as far back to the 1950s; they don’t go further back.  Talent is lost from the 1920s and ’30s, and when you don’t pick up on that, you lose a new generation of designers.”

– Uwe Westphal, as told to Atlanta Jewish Times

A Fashion Story Honors Women in Combat | Isabella Diorio

The Ashley Coat, The Cathay Dress, The Brewster Bolero | Photo: Emily Warfield

“It’s not just about the garment itself but about the story behind it.”

– Isabella Diorio | New Orleans, Louisiana

Most Read

  • Fashion Industry Environmental, Waste, and Recycle Statistics
    Fashion Industry Environmental, Waste, and Recycle Statistics
  • Did You Know? Non-Biodegradable Clothes Take 20 to 200 Years to Biodegrade
    Did You Know? Non-Biodegradable Clothes Take 20 to 200 Years to Biodegrade
  • Let’s Talk About the Unmentionables: Can Lingerie Be Sustainable?
    Let’s Talk About the Unmentionables: Can Lingerie Be Sustainable?
  • Fashion Culture | The Empowering Effect of Ebony Fashion Fair
    Fashion Culture | The Empowering Effect of Ebony Fashion Fair
  • Museum Crawl: MUST See 2022 FASHION Exhibits - Africa Fashion, Virgil Abloh, McQueen, Pei, and more
    Museum Crawl: MUST See 2022 FASHION Exhibits - Africa Fashion, Virgil Abloh, McQueen, Pei, and more
  • Skip The Landfill, Create The Art
    Skip The Landfill, Create The Art

Rescued Rubbish is ReIMAGINED | Sayoko Kojima

“Culturally reusing and taking care of what you have and keeping it longer was much more common when I was growing up in Japan.” – Sayoko Kojima

Sayoko Kojima, designer | Photographer @manonceartist

“A Study of Eight, The Untold American Story”

"A Study of Eight, The Untold American Story", (hardbound archive, NFS) Library of Congress General Collections

NPR Here & Now showcases ‘A Study of Eight’

W.E.B. Du Bois' Exposition des Nègres d’Amérique Transformed the World's View of Black in America

“African Americans have contributed historically to fashion in ways that we just don’t know about. ‘A Study of Eight’ highlights those hidden figures and events.”

-RP Hill

Oregon ArtsWatch | Rhonda P. Hill and the EDGE of Design

Stage & Studio Dmae Lo Roberts looks at the Black contributions to fashion design throughout American history with writer, publisher and fashion expert Rhonda P. Hill.

The Golliwog: The Patrick Kelly Story

“Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love” at the de Young museum in San Francisco. Spring/Summer 1986, cotton and nylon printed by Bianchini-Férier (French, est.ca. 1880); Shoes by Maud Frizon (French, est. 1969) leather; Mask: wood, paper, hemp. Gift of Bjorn Guil Amelan and Bill T. Jones in honor of Monica Brown to the collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Photo © Rhonda P. Hill
"That simple white dress, stamped with this image, became a garment that was powerful in historical relevance, designed by a Black man, as well as a sophisticated, cool message print." - André Leon Talley

Fashion Study | EDGE Suggested Resources

  • A Study of Eight, The Untold American Story
  • Aryanization and the Destruction of Berlin’s Fashion Industry
  • Black Past
  • Fashion History
  • Fashion History Timeline
  • Fashion's First Black Designers
  • Fashion's First Black Supermodels
  • History Is Rarely Black or White
  • Ikats from Central Asia
  • Meet Mildred Blount, Costume Hat Designer
  • Patrick Kelly: A Retrospective
  • The Fashion and Race Database
  • Traditional Dress from East Asia
  • Willi Smith: The Creative Intersection of an American Genius

Museum Destiny: The Case for Contemporary Fashion

Designed by Hera Zhou | Exhibited at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris; GraySpace Gallery, Santa Barbara
Inspired by Hokusai's "The Great Wave", The 'White Feather Dress' by Hera Zhou | Exhibited at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris; GraySpace Gallery, Santa Barbara

“Let’s keep fighting the fight for fashion as art.”

– Hera Zhou | Shanghai

“Blurred Boundaries: Fashion as an Art”, curated by Rhonda P. Hill

Blurred Boundaries Fashion as an Art installation, curated by [l] Rhonda P. Hill, ©Rhonda P. Hill, 2018
"Blurred Boundaries: Fashion as an Art" installation | Santa Barbara

Fashion and Society, A Constant State of Interpretation| 배혜진 Hyee Jin Bae

배혜진 HYEE JIN BAE, Artist.
배혜진 HYEE JIN BAE exhibit at CICA Museum, Seoul, Korea

“Typically, the visual form or design is based on the functionality, but the function of the clothing that I make differs from looking posh or preventing the cold. My clothes are designed for people to focus on the act of wearing the clothing.”

– 배혜진 Hyee Jin Bae | Seoul, Korea

Neo.Fashion.: The Vanguard of Fashion Emerges from Germany

"Look at EDGE" Showcases Neo.Fashion. | A Curated Showcase of Emerging Talent.

“Although fashion has it’s utilitarian purpose, we can view it more than just a consumptive object.  A new generation of designers offer an intelligent dialogue on fashion’s contribution to art, culture, and practices of sustaining earth’s resources.”

-RP Hill

Preserving the Art of Shibori

Skirt : JUNNA (@junnakamura_) Model : Raihanna Thompson (@_raihanna) Makeup : Azzurra Bonaldo (@azzurra_bonaldo @maccosmetics) Direction : Riccardo Rubino (@rick_inky_style) Designer : Jun Nakamura (@junnakamura_)
Shibori, a modern look by Jun Nakamura

“I think the process of developing design by working on a form, sketching, and collaging is similar to that of creating art.  It all challenges our creativity, striking a balance as a whole piece.”

– Jun Nakamura | London

Sustainable Fashion: Be Informed | EDGE Suggested Resources

  • A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future
  • CFDA Guide to Sustainable Strategies
  • CFDA Materials Index
  • Circular Fashion
  • Circular Fashion System – EDGE explains
  • Climate Action Playbook
  • Eco-fiber or Eco Fraud?
  • ECONYL®
  • Ecouterre
  • European Commission Circular Economy Action Plan
  • European Parliament Report
  • Fashion Futures 2030
  • Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change
  • Fashion Industry Environmental, Waste, and Recycle Statistics
  • Fashion on Climate
  • Green America
  • Green Fashion Week
  • Green Strategy
  • Hemp Textiles
  • Hemp Traders Flyer
  • Looptworks
  • Net Zero Challenge: The Supply Chain Opportunity
  • Quantis Report | Measuring Fashion
  • Redress
  • Relooping Fashion Initiative
  • Sustainable Apparel Coalition
  • sustainable EDGE
  • Sustainable Textiles, the Textile Community Talks
  • The Ellen MacArthur Foundation
  • The Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report
  • thredUP
  • Triple Pundit
  • U.S. Chamber of Commerce Textile Waste Is the Next New Product
  • United Nations Helps Fashion Industry Shift to Low Carbon
  • United Nations Partnership On Sustainable Fashion
  • WRAP
  • Zero Waste Design

Circle By Design | A Talk With Ophir El-Boher

courtesy of Ophir El-Boher, photography Mario Gallucci, Copy of PNCA-MFA-Thesis-2019-DSC_7598
A circular design system for a sustainable future.

“My strategy is to design systems where individuals can produce fashion items out of waste, according to an existing design, in a way that is circular. . .my theory is that if some percentage of your closet is made by you through such a system, then you have changed your consumption behavior for the long term, and therefore will be a much better fashion consumer and user.”

– Ophir El-Boher | Portland, Oregon

The Power of Cloth and Why We Should Care | Abiola Onabule

Abiola Onabule Photo 2 - Photos by Jessica Eliza Ross
Abiola Onabule, designer | Photo: Jessica Eliza Ross

“My interest in textiles such as Adire and Aso Oke comes from a fascination in how a textile can become the through-line of people’s lives, their personal histories, economic change and growth, political and cultural shifts.” 

– Abiola Onabule | London

Elevating African Fashion | A Talk with Maryanne E. Mokoko

“Throughout my journey I have met/spoken to a variety of people from different countries, cultures, races.  With this I have realized that you don’t have to be Black to be Afropolitan.  You simply have to have an affinity for Afro culture.”

– Maryanne E. Mokoko | USA/Cameroon

“I am so grateful for this opportunity! Thank you for the bold questions @edgexpo” 🙏🏾

– Maryanne E. Mokoko | USA/Cameroon

RSS Fashion News

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  • Takko Fashion's annual sales grow 11 percent
  • Vans announce Custom Culture competition winner
  • Abercrombie & Fitch reports Q1 loss, lowers outlook
  • Ralph Lauren Q4 revenue ahead of expectations, swings to profit
  • Premium, Seek and FashionTech to return all under one roof
  • NABA and Sunnei launch scholarship competition
  • Hyve Group says in-person events recovering faster than anticipated

E D G E Fashion Intelligence gives voice to the under-represented creative force that operate outside the system, embraces the transformative power of fashion, and pushes concept over sale-ability.

E D G E Fashion Intelligence, ©EDGExpo.com. All Rights Reserved

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EDGE Afropolitan | African Diaspora Fashion Makers

Josefa Da Silva, AFWLA, EDGExpo.com, photo: Cindy Ceballos
Josefa Da Silva, designer, AFWLA, photo: Cindy Ceballos
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EDITOR’S Letter: “Will My Future Self Be Satisfied?”

Laura Petzke, designer | photography: Marcelo De Souza Moraes, model: Vanessa Appiah | ALL WHITE STUDIO: Hansastraße 14a, 41460 Düsseldorf
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