Whatever happened to the upcycle queen, Narci Lee, who reclaims unwanted garments, household linens, and textile waste we call rags or remnants, that most of us would throw out?
Since our interview in November 2016, she continues to master the art of upcycling and is exhibiting her new work in What’s So Lovely About the End of the World?, at PLACE, in Portland Oregon.
What’s so lovely about the end of the world? Visual artists, like Lee, are skipping the landfill and creating sculpted works of art out of discarded textiles, designed to be worn as statement pieces in support of a circular fashion system. She is thrilled to be a guest artist, along with painter, Erik ReeL, showcasing a three-piece ensemble, titled, Vivi Ann, specifically for this show, created mostly from discarded futon covers, painted by Erik ReeL. “The Making of Vivi Ann”, previously featured, has its own story.
The coat, dress, and duffel ensemble take on many nuances. Playful oversized shapes, outrageously exaggerated long sleeves that touch the ground, and it took 100 collage-like paneled cuts to compose the look right down to a whimsical multi-paneled-pointed hoodie.
To put it in perspective, when we unveiled the coat (it’s really beyond a coat, more of a super coat), admiring the weight and detail of this highly constructed piece, it occurred to me that it wasn’t going to be easy to look at it without a mannequin or dowel rod. Wanting to treat this work of art with the care that it deserves, I asked if it is ok to view it on a dowel-like piece of wood and she said, in her classic Narci-animated tone, “it’s indestructible!” The more beat up, the more worn and frayed, the better… I want it to have a rough look. Beat it up, it’s fine.”
Lee, who takes pride in a zero-waste design practice, describes her technique in using every scrap of material. “These materials were from something else. I made the ensemble out of Erik’s fabric, bed sheets, and denim. The denim pockets on the coat were constructed with four Levi butt pockets sewn together, and the ties were cut from corduroy pants. Instead of deconstructing the zippered side of the futon cover, I used it as a basis for the bag, and made the strap from braided zippers.”
Speaking of scraps, Lee’s extra scraps, are used in what she calls the “Scrap Dress”. These big dresses are a new item gaining momentum with a sophisticated crowd, who understand the ecological crisis we’re in.
People are on alert and it will vary by generations, plus it’s complicated on a global scale, but the world aspires towards a circular economy, essential to combat the climate crisis. ‘What’s so lovely’ is that society holds the power to make things happen, influenced by our values, survival, and the need to protect and be self-sufficient. Fashion, as the planet’s third largest polluter, is on the mind of conscious consumers. They are paying attention to how or why we clothe our bodies; are embracing the movement of environmental-waste reduction with responsible consumption, and caring about the impact the fashion industry has on workers and society. Lee’s work epitomizes this environmental movement of ‘care’.
Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART) claims that 85% of clothing and textiles end up in the landfill, even though 95% can be reused and recycled. ‘What’s so lovely’ is that Vivi Ann skipped the landfill, extended the lifespan while giving new meaning to materials otherwise destined to dirt.
Narci Lee is a fashion designer and performance artist. Her designs have been exhibited at realART Gallery in Agoura Hills, California, seen on the runway at the Museum of Ventura County fashion events, and are in various boutiques and wardrobe collections throughout the country. Her performance work has engaged audiences for years at artist John M. White’s celebrated 5X5X5 performance art series in Ventura, California. She lives in Ventura with her husband, Jason Russell.
What’s So Lovely About the End of the World?, curated by Rhonda P. Hill
On view 28 August 2023 – 28 September 2023
PLACE
735 NW 18th Avenue
Portland, Oregon, 97210, USA
PLACE
PLACE is a design studio engaging landscape architecture, art, and urban design to make the world a better place. As a partner of 1% for PLANET, their impact is reflected in prestigious accolades including the 2021 ASLA Landmark Award and the inaugural Architecture MasterPrize Landscape & Urban Design Firm of the Year. World headquarters, Portland, Oregon.
Feature Image: “What’s So Lovely About the End of the World?” exhibition installation (August 2023), Vivi Ann | PLACE, Portland, OR, 2023 | photo by Rhonda P. Hill
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